Is a community or society that is in some important way undesirable or frightening. It is the opposite of a utopia. ( An anti-utopia )
Though labeled as an “undesirable society” it seems that the fashion world has taken this counter culture and made it into something more then just that. With designers like Belgium’s “DEMOBAZA” or 99%IS by BAJOWOO behind the movement. People worldwide are slowly drawing into the idea of this Dystopian future.
Official DEMOBAZA MAN SS15 Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qCgSImqyeXY
Official DEMOBAZA Website: http://www.demobaza.com/
Through the ages, the fashion world has brought us classic and timeless movements including the unforgettable and elegant works of Chanel and Dior.To the breakthrough trends set by designers like Alexander McQueen who pushed the boundaries of the modern day aesthetic by stunning the world as he littered the runways with his strikingly original designs.
Concepts are constantly trying to give way, most are soon swiftly phased out by more “innovative” creations. The global empire of fashion is something that’s always evolving, eventually giving us a pattern, stich or design structure that’s considered ‘timeless’. In thinking about this fact, an aesthetic based off a future that’s yet to exists almost seems like an ideal platform for this particular movement.
With the collapse of urban social structure, most of mankind is forced to consider the now naked elements of life. All objects have a purpose, all clothing is made to be functional. Various materials like rubber, cotton, denim and metal are stiched and fastened creating an almost grungy Avant-Garde apparel. In a Dystopian future, clothing was purely about protection and status. With a matriarch of sci-fi apocalytpic films and wiritngs to build from. Every piece or rubbish became a piece for inspiration, giving you the basic apocalyptic look you see now
Movies like 1995’s Waterworld and 1979’s Mad Max, played into this apocalyptic aesthetic. Notice how each design is drawn from the worlds global terrain/climate or even social and societal structure. A Dystopian culture to those who consider it, is a reality in which the world and the apparel within it have little to no limiations on the way they may look. So as a designer, you could imagine why they drift towards, or even stray from a reality in which they have obscure amounts of creative freedom.
Apocalyptic and Dystopian fashions are not your typical department store purchases. With international cities like Tokyo, Melbourne, London and New York providing the perfect breeding ground for these privately owned labels, It’s defintely defined where you can spot and support these looks. With the popular basement brand “Assin” based off Little Collins St. in Melbourne, Australia. You find that this location not only supplies its own brand, but inlists other local conceptual designers to showcase there labels and collections. Many boutiques around the world, like Australia’s Assin, have managed to do the same by conjoining the feel of an art gallery with a usually modern shopping enviornment. Streching overseas to Tokyo, Japan we find brands like (99%IS) from Korean creator BAJOWOO. With his visions more geared towards a sci-fi punk aesthetic, and less about the unrefined future. BAJOWOO is a prime example of how far these designers can go to contribute to the evolution of this modern movement.
99%IS: Born on 1984 in Seoul, Korea. Enrolled at ESMODE in 2003. Afterword, started up his first punk brand in Korea, producing rock band costumes and artwork.
Official 99%- 2014-15 A/W Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wChCTiSB0ic
After visiting London, Paris, Tokyo and Bangkok BAJOWOO had seen the affects these underground scenes had on rising sub-cultures. This then became his primary inspiration for the current label he’s established. BAJOWOO later relocated to Tokyo in 2008, then enrolling into a dressmaker’s dchool in 2010. Finally in Autumn/Winter of 2012 when he was a second year student, he started up his fashion brand known today as 99%IS.
Assin: Is an evolving fashion retail concept, conceived and brought to life in April 2004 in a 450sqm diffused city basement in Melbourne, Australia. Assin aims to recognize a refined collective thought that merges fashion, art, architecture and design. The store offers an intimate perspective on world fashion through considered retail and exhibition spaces, installations and designer collaborations extending from the physical into the digital world.
Official Assin (AU) Website: http://www.assin.com.au/#/homepage
Official Facebook Page: https://www.facebook.com/Assinstore
With this dystopian epidemic plauging the fashion world. Some see this aesthetic as the future of fashion, as others lean to a simpler yet sophisticated approach to modern apparel. Both evolving with the influences of our societies past and present, its hard to determine which direction the world of fashion may go. So for now could this apocalytpic frenzy be what marks our era’s spot in fashion history, or will this yet again be something that fades to dust..?